With the Toric and Tonda novelties presented at the 2025 Watches and Wonders, Parmigiani Fleurier continues to please those with taste for quiet and intimate luxury.
Following his 4 years in the FMCG sector and 20 years at Bvlgari, Guido Terreni arrived to serve Parmigiani Fleurier as a CEO in January 2021. He has brought valuable experiences from outside the industry as well as the know-how of building up a solid business line on a strongly defining heritage at Bvlgari. A different scale and legacy, but resetting Parmigiani to success being the choice of purists is a delicate adventure to take on. The company needed clear directions and a new structure, and this is what Guido Terreni came to pursue.
The philosophy he started to influence the company with, comes through very well in his foreword to the new collection: ‘For us, horological tradition is not a heritage to preserve, but a living intelligence to refine. We strip away the superfluous to reveal the essence : the elegance of proportion, the truth of materials, and the serenity of function.’ He immediately clarified the audience the Parmigiani timepieces talk to: ‘Our timepieces are created for those who value silence over noise, craftsmanship over spectacle, and meaning over affectation.’
The Tonda collection was revived the same year he had arrived, and at last year’s Watches and Wonders Michel Parmigiani’s first collection the Toric.
At the 2025 Watches and Wonders exhibition, both collections were extended in the same spirit by a number of novelties.
Toric Quantième Perpétuel
A grand complication was showcased in the Toric family, shaped by the leading driver of the brand: purity. The complexities of the perpetual calendar are hidden behind a minimalistic, naturally elegant facade and equally sophisticated indications. The greater part of the dial’s surface is free from any markers, only the delicate logo and the sub-dials float in it. The dial itself is hand-grained lending a powdery effect to the golden plate. The timepiece comes in two colour versions: one with a ‘Morning Blue’ shade over a white gold plate and a polished platinum 950 case, and another with a warm ‘Golden Hour’ 18k rose gold dial and case from the same material. The hands and indexes follow the shade of the case.
The sub-dials are slightly recessed and finished with contrasting chamfering. They give home to all indications of the perpetual calendar function in concentric circles: at 4 o’clock inside the leap year display, outside the months, while at 8 o’clock inside the day of the week, and outside the day.
Almost all plates of the PF733 manual calibre is made of 18k rose gold. The movement has a double barrel providing 60 hours reserve and a stable torque on the gear train, released to the rhythm of a 4Hz balance wheel. The beautiful movement is finished with the Côtes de Fleurier pattern.
Both versions are limited to 50 pieces each.
Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante – Stainless Steel Verzasca
The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante was presented in a steel case, platinum 950 knurled bezel and blue dial version at the Watches and Wonders 2022 fair. The brand introduced now a new Verzasca dial colour sibling with the same metal combination.
The GMT functionality concept Parmigiani introduced with the complication increased the overall intuitiveness by focusing on the essentials. It omits any reference to AM/PM indication and half hour time-zones but in exchange it provides a very clear solution to the majority of use cases. By pressing the button at 8 o’clock the rhodium-plated hour hand advances in one hour increments, while a rose-gold hand that travelled as its shadow so far remains on the home time. Upon returning home, their original super-exposed position can be reset by the rose gold pusher on the crown. The micro-rotor enabled automatic calibre operates at 3Hz frequency.
The new colour variation is inspired by the beautiful green waters of Verzasca Valley in Ticino.
Tonda PF Skeleton – Stainless Steel Slate Green
Similarly to the Tonda PF GMT, the Tonda PF Skeleton was also originally introduced in 2022 in steel and 18ct rose gold, followed by platinum in 2024. The 2025 model, limited to 50 pieces, is a new variation to that.
The steel body and platinum bezel received a luminous green open-worked dial, inspired by Le Corbusier’s architectural palette.
Beyond his well-known early white buildings, Le Corbusier developed “Polychromie Architecturale,” a curated system of 63 specific colours chosen for their intended psychological and spatial effects within architecture. He strategically applied these hues, often internally, using receding colours like blues to create space and advancing colours like reds or yellows to bring surfaces forward or define moods. This systematic approach treated colour as a fundamental architectural tool, and his influential palette remains precisely maintained and available today.
The meticulous finishing on the dial (brushing, hand-bevelling, satin) and the case (polished and satin) together with the colours of the green and the steel provide a very strong metallic aesthetic.
The automatic PF777 movement that can be observed from both sides is powered by a 22k white gold oscillating weight.
Tonda PF Chronographs
Parmigiani Fleurier introduced two new chronographs in the Tonda line this year. Both follow the paths of focusing on the essence of the functionality. Therefore, the company decided to leave out any other indication such as the date.
Both employs the COSC-certified manufacture calibre PF070, which beats at 5Hz.
The Tonda PF Chronograph No Date 40mm model reduces the typical diameter of 42-43 mm. Not having a randomly placed aperture for the date on the dial makes especially good for the aesthetic appearance of the smaller timepiece. The stainless steel case and the platinum 950 knurled bezel is complemented by a ‘Mineral Blue’ Grain d’Orge hand-guilloché dial.
The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph – Ultra Cermet comes in two colour combinations: London Grey and Milano Blue. However, the main novelty is the material the case is made of. Parmigiani used a composite of ceramic and metal called cermet to cast the enduring watch house.
Cermets have been created since the 1920s in Germany but the term ‘cermet’ was coined by United States Air Force in the 40s. They are composite materials designed to combine the most desirable properties of both ceramics and metals. They typically consist of hard ceramic particles embedded in a metallic binder, resulting in materials with high-temperature resistance, hardness, and wear resistance (from the ceramic) combined with improved toughness and resistance to thermal shock (from the metal). This unique blend makes cermets valuable for demanding applications such as high-speed cutting tools, wear-resistant coatings, and components used in extreme temperature environments.
Parmigiani’s novelty replaces all typical metallic external parts such as the case, fluted bezel, crown, pushers, and pin buckle with this material.
The cermet material created by marrying titanium and ceramic makes the novelty extremely durable (hardness of 1450 Vickers) while light at the same time.
Photo credits: Loupiosity.com
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