Cartier presented many wrist- and eye-pleasing novelties in their signature lines at Watches and Wonders 2025. Check out our selection.
Reflecting to the breath of their launches, Cartier typically occupies a substantial space at the Watches and Wonders each year. Different areas of the booth are dedicated to important novelties and the design emphasise the main motifs of the new collections.
Cartier Privé – Tank à Guichets
Cartier relaunched the Cartier Privé, the collectors’ collection in 2015. It includes exclusive limited edition and numbered watches – for example, the Tank Normale from 2023.
This year, the Tank à Guichets is in the spotlight. The model first appeared almost 100 years ago in 1928 offering a cool digital time display. The Cartier Tank à Guichets is one of the most unique and rare variations of the iconic Tank line, and it holds a special place in the horological history. The pieces feature a brushed or polished precious metal case (often platinum or yellow gold), combining a bold but minimalistic design. Instead of the traditional hands and dial setup, the Cartier Tank à Guichets uses jumping hour and minute windows, called ‘guichets’ in French.
New models appeared throughout the decades, like this one in platinum in 1996 (the version was specially made by Cartier for the Antiquorum auction).
The 2025 novelties are made of yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum and the cases are satin finished. The crown is situated at 12 o’clock just like aperture for the hours. The trailing minutes are at 6 o’clock. The gold versions have black numbers, while the platinum case is matched with bordeaux details. The platinum model issued by the House has a twisted minutes window at 10 o’clock and while the golden models are not limited, this one is to 200 pieces.
The new Tank à Guichets houses a new hand-wound caliber, the 9755 MC with jumping hours and dragging minutes.
Tressage de Cartier
The Tressage de Cartier jewellery collection was launched in April 2023 as part of the Maison’s avant-garde Cartier Libre series. The pieces draw inspiration from Cartier’s rich creative heritage, including the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint (1887 – 1978), who followed Louis Cartier in the role of the Director of Fine Jewellery in 1933 and stayed at the helm until her retirement in 1970.
For the Watches and Wonders 2025, the Maison enhanced the Tressage line with a collection of sculptural timepieces. Similarly to the jewels, the new Tressage de Cartier watches showcase the Maison’s outstanding gold craftsmanship and the creative play with volumes and contrasts. Featuring yellow gold and distinctive cloud-shaped twists, this timepiece is a true watchmaking sculpture.
I tried on two models. One in yellow gold with a black dial and black strap, and a yellow gold version combined with twists of gold and diamonds surrounding a rectangular snow-set diamond dial.
As usual, Cartier presented many more novelties, including the Santos du Dumont in different metals with manual caliber, the Santos Dumont Skeleton in steel with the automatic 9629 MC, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier with day and night complication as well as new Baignoire models.
The story continues with the Métiers d’Art and the Panthére De Cartier collections here.
Photo credits: Cartier. Loupiosity.com
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