“Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” – Confucius

Panerai at Watches and Wonders 2021

At this year’s Watches and Wonders Panerai presented new Luminor and Submersible timepieces and with their new IOC-UNESCO cooperation the Neuchâtel-based manufacture reinforces its commitment to a sustainable environment and a healthy ocean. 

The history and brand image of Panerai are inseparable from the seas and marine world. The company supplied professional dive gauges for the Italian Navy for almost 60 years. It has been sponsoring the international circuit of regattas for classic yachts, the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, where their Eilean, the restored 1936 22-metre Bermudian ketch also takes part year after year (if you would like to learn more about this beautiful yacht, please check this out). Panerai is the sponsor of Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team, the 36th America’s Cup Challenger of Record – this year also launched a new limited edition timepiece, the Luminor Chrono Luna Rossa to celebrate the passion and talent of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli Team. 

Among his ambassadors we can find Guillaume Néry, the French free-diving world champion or Gregorio Paltrinieri, Italian Olympic and world long course and short course swimming champion. 

Now – as Panerai released at Watches and Wonders 2021 – the company is partnering with the Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission of UNESCO (IOC-UNESCO). IOC-UNESCO is the United Nations body responsible for supporting global ocean science and services. The IOC enables its 150 member states to work together to protect the health of our shared oceans by coordinating programmes in areas such as ocean observations, tsunami warnings and marine spatial planning.


The partnership between Panerai and IOC-UNESCO aims to roll out programs for developing transformative solutions to the existing and future challenges of the world’s oceans in the framework of the Ocean Decade (2021 – 2030). The Ocean Decade promotes science-based management of the ocean and marine resources to achieve the goals of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development. It provides information for the 14-member Ocean Panel, which seeks to change the way the world thinks, acts and feels about the ocean. They aim to inspire policies and actions at the highest levels to catalyze the transition to a sustainable ocean economy.

‘Every part of our organization, from our brand ambassadors to staff will be engaged in this movement. Panerai has always been known for its pioneering role and in this case, we want to set new boundaries in terms of environmental responsibility and overcome them, being one of the first movers in the watch industry to raise awareness towards such an important topic and change the rules. Our goal is to become a key player, not only an example for our peers, but also for our suppliers, our customers and all the people that are involved in Panerai, on a worldwide level. As a company, we have the responsibility to be active and support the urgent need for change and help protecting our Planet, empowering everyone to take direct action to take care of it. The more we can work together, the better’ – says CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué. 

Panerai Submersible eLAB-IDTM 

Sustainability has key importance in every industry and lately it has started to influence luxury watches. Panerai introduced the Submersible eLAB-IDTM concept watch, a timepiece with the highest percentage of recycled material ever made. 

A total of 98.6% of its weight comes from materials integrating a high rate of recycled elements. The case, the sandwich dial and the bridges are composed of EcoTitaniumTM, a recycled titanium alloy that is a lightweight aerospace-grade metal made of more than 80% recycled content. The Submersible eLAB-IDTM is the first watch to use 100% recycled SuperLuminovaTM on its dial and hands and 100% recycled silicon for its movement escapement. Both are obtained through dedicated, small-scale recycling processes that reuse raw material waste. From the sapphire crystal to the gold hands, most of the major components contain recycled-based material. For this concept watch Panerai had to establish a new supply chain and work with special partners and suppliers. 

The main goal of the Submersible eLAB-IDTM is to show to the industry that making a watch using predominantly recycled-based material is possible, thus reducing the need for virgin material extraction and its associated high environmental impact. Panerai invites collaboration with other brands or partners eager to work toward creating a more sustainable future based on a circular use of natural resources. 

Luminor Marina eSteelTM

The Luminor Marina is one of the most beloved Panerai models. In 1949, Panerai introduced the tritium-based (a hydrogen isotope) luminous substance Luminor and the luminescent numerals and indices found themselves in a similarly named evolved case with the famous crown-protecting bridge in 1950. Panerai celebrated the Luminor substance and the 70-year old case design in 2020. Last year at Watches and Wonders they celebrated the occasion with many Luminor models. In 2021 a special one joined the family, the Luminor Marina eSteelTM.

Panerai underlines their research and experimental work with innovative materials, carried out by the Laboratorio di Idee within the Manufacture in Neuchâtel.

The 44mm diameter, 15,45mm thick case is now made from eSteel  recycled-based material: ‘the 89g of the Luminor Marina eSteel TM  components are made of recycled-based materials, corresponding to 58,4% of the total weight of the watch (that is 152,4g). Both the case and dial of Luminor Marina eSteelTM feature the new recycled-based steel alloy’The brand claims that this material meets the same rigorous standards of ‘usual’ stainless steel and exhibits the identical chemical behaviour, physical structure and resistance to corrosion as a non-recycled alloy. 

The new release is available in three dial colors: Blu Profondo, Grigio Roccia and Verde Smeraldo, the last of which is exclusive to Panerai boutiques and e-commerce. Each features a polished dial with gradient colour which goes from dark to light colour, with the eSteelTM logo printed on it. 

All versions share the 6 mm thick 4Hz automatic mechanical P.9010 Calibre equipped with GlucydurTM balance, IncablocTM anti-shock device and two spring barrels.

Photo credits: Officine Panerai
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