“Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” – Confucius

GTE – Luxury underground, Part 1

Posted by 



For me creativity is not necessary creating something radically new but combining existing things for a new purpose no one has really thought of before. The story of the Bâtiment des Forces Motrices – the venue of the Geneva Time Exhibition – is a good example of this. Take a factory building from 1892, convert it to a theatre and later to an exhibition hall and you’ll have an extraordinary atmosphere, which will bless the encapsulated events with an unparallel ambiance.

And GTE is spicy by itself. The exhibiting brands combine traditions and craft with contemporary lines and technology which together result in a stylish mix. It is not overwhelming it does not want to be too much; it’s a playful taster of delicate blends lined up along a clear principle, fine watchmaking.

As is the case with flavours, the specifications and photos do not convey the real beauty and soul of the watches showcased here. I’d like to highlight a few brands and blends I found interesting – I suggest you to go and taste them yourself.

Antoine Martin

Since its establishment in 2011 I’ve heard few times of Antoine Martin headed by Martin Braun master watchmaker and Bruno Jufer, CEO. The young firm have made its debut at BASELWORLD in 2011 with the Quantième Perpétuel collection motored by the AM39.001 movement with a perpetual calendar. In 2012 the more complicated Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel was revealed. At the 2013 GTE the collection expanded by an interesting open dial version. The sporty look matte and shiny stainless steel case consists of 84 individual pieces. The five openings on the dial allow a glimpse to under the skin, where the high-tech mechanical movement of Martin Braun beats for 6 days with one winding. Novelties are expected for BASELWORLD in April.


H. Moser & Cie

Recently acquired by Georges-Henri Meylan and his companions, H. Moser & Cie is the producer of watches that go to the extremes only under classical dials and tell their secrets exclusively to competent eyes. The clean, solid and similar looks hold highly complicated movements. Their Perpetual 1 was distinguished with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2006 and in the Perpetual Moon watch the engineers have managed to build a calendar that deviates by one day in every 1027 years. As Nicholas J. Hofmann, the regional sales director of H. Moser & Cie showed me the watch, he funnily noted “Well, we can’t really prove it, can we? But you are not able to prove the opposite either” – he winked. It remains to be seen how the ownership change will impact the portfolio of H. Moser & Cie, yet their truly statement watches are a great complement to the models of the holding’s other newly purchased brand, Hautlence. And ladies… I’d encourage you to try one on when the day has come; they look fab on women’s wrists, too!

The articles of the series:
GTE – Luxury underground, Part 1
GTE – Luxury underground, Part 2

Photo credits: Antoine Martin, H. Moser & Cie, Loupiosity.com.
All registered trademarks are property of their respective owners.
All rights reserved.