Vacheron Constantin introduces coloured stones to Grand Lady Kalla line, adding a sparkling new chapter to the story of High Jewellery watches at the Maison.
At Vacheron the watchmaking expertise in the field of ladies’ watches dates back to the 19th century. Its museum collection includes pieces like an enamelled retractable purse watch, bracelet watches and a brooch watch with diamonds and pearls from the ‘30s as well as a yellow gold, engraved brooch watch with a flower from 1902 (more about these pieces here).
‘The period from the mid-1920s onwards was a time of effervescent creativity for Vacheron Constantin as it embraced the aesthetic codes showcased by the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts held in Paris in 1925.’ – as Sandrine Donguy, product and innovation director at Vacheron Constantin shares.
The Kalla story
An important milestone in the creation of female timepieces was the Kallista in 1979. The collection’s name comes from the ancient Greek word καλλίστη, which means ‘most beautiful’ or ‘splendid’. It was designed by French painter and sculptor Raymond Moretti (1931- 2005). He paired a rivière bracelet with a solid 18k gold case weighing 140 grams, sculpted in one piece from a single ingot. The watch was set with 130 carats of diamonds. In 1980 the Kalla debuted (also from 18k yellow gold) and later different variations joined the family Miss Kalla, Queen Kalla, Lord Kalla, King Kalla, or Duchesse Kalla.
Last year at the Homo Faber the visitors had the chance to see a number of timepieces from Vacheron Constantin’s private collection, including a 1985 Lady Kalla jewellery watch.
To mark the 30th anniversary of the Lady Kalla in 2010, the Maison presented Lady Kalla Flame, inaugurating the distinctive Flame cut, devised by Vacheron Constantin and registered by the GIA (Gemological Institue of America). In 2024, Grand Lady Kalla – a monochromatic combination of diamonds, white Akoya pearls and black onyx beads – introduced a dazzling new design to the continually evolving ‘kallista’ series of High Jewellery watches.
New Grand Lady Kalla
The novelties celebrate diamonds combined with rubies, emeralds and blue sapphires in an Art Deco inspired style. Each of the three models features a total of 45.66 ct of diamonds and comprises four interchangeable elements. The three-row rivière-style bracelet comprises 103 diamonds and a central row of precious stones – sapphires, rubies or emeralds respectively. The jewellers used platinum with the emerald stones and white gold for the ruby and sapphire pieces.
Grand Lady Kalla’s elements enable it to be worn in four different ways, adapting to different styles and occasions. Whether on the sautoir or the bracelet, the watch can be exchanged with the jewel piece in a matter of moments, by means of hidden locking mechanisms that require no tools to operate.
The jewel centre piece is set with 12 diamonds, with a large sugarloaf-cut sapphire, ruby or emerald in the middle. The sugarloaf-cut is defined by having four sides polished to a point, like a pyramid with rounded corners. It has ancient origins and relatively rare in modern jewellery. This cut requires a high level of skill and precision to preserve the gem’s natural shape and beauty while creating smooth and symmetrical surfaces.
On the watch, surrounding the fully diamond-set dial, two emerald-cut examples of the same precious, coloured stone contrast with the cool sparkle of 10 emerald-cut diamonds. The timepiece houses the small 1212 Quartz movement (11.3 mm diameter, 2.5 mm thick).
The watch and jewel piece are both designed to be fitted seamlessly onto either the bracelet or the sautoir. Measuring 85 cm in length, the sautoir combines the rounded form of 112 Akoya pearls – chosen for their deep lustre and high shine – with beads of polished precious stones and ornamental stones. The elongated necklace ends with a tassel of pearls and a polished bead of the precious stone.
The new Grand Lady Kalla is presented in an elegant box accompanied by a specially designed document holder that contains a designer’s original gouache of the piece and a certificate of authenticity.
Source: press release. Photo credits: Vacheron Constantin.
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