Celebrating its 270 years, Vacheron Constantin reveals three Traditionnelle limited edition complications and eight limited editions within its Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections. Presented at Watches and Wonders, the novelties feature a new dial signature and remarkable calibre finishing.
Twelve years ago, when I attended the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie SIHH (the predecessor of Watches and Wonders) for the first time, I can clearly remember the how much my visit at the Vacheron Constantin booth affected me. We sat with Christian Selmoni, Director of Style and Heritage of Vacheron Constantin talking about the beautiful floral guilloché engraving and the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel of the Métiers d’Art Florilège collection. My eventful twelve years of following the brand’s artistic work is less than 5% of the company’s overall history. The myriads of technically and aesthetically acclaimed time objects produced during their fascinating 270 years of history has elevated Vacheron Constantin to the ‘Holy Trinity of Watches’ (describing the most prestigious and established Swiss watchmakers along Patek Phillippe and Audemars Piguet) in the eyes of the watch loving community. This debated term from the 70s might be outdated today, but Vacheron Constantin still holds itself to its original core values firmly: exclusivity, masterful craftsmanship, technical innovation and heritage. It undoubtedly remains the choice of connoisseurs valuing subtle elegance, historical significance, and high-end watchmaking. Since 2008, the brand has been looking up, restoring and offering vintage timepieces for sale under the Les Collectionneurs program.
The 270th anniversary year
Vacheron Constantin will celebrate the significant year by a number of events and collections. In order to distinguish the timepieces created this year, they will bear a special dial signature and an original finishing style.
Vacheron Constantin was founded in 1755 in Geneva, Switzerland, by Jean-Marc Vacheron. In 1819, François Constantin (1788-1854) joined the founder’s grandson, Jacques-Barthélemy Vacheron (1787-1864) leading to its official name, Vacheron & Constantin and of its founding principles: ‘Do better if possible and that is always possible.’
Throughout the many years of its existence, the company introduced key watchmaking advancements, including complications for perpetual calendars and chronographs. In 1880, the Maltese Cross was adopted as the company’s logo, symbolizing excellence and precision. In the 20th century, beyond the high complications they became a leading brand for ultra-thin movements. The ultra thin minute repeater caliber (3,2 mm thick) Reference 4261 represents an important milestone for the Maison’s chiming watches from 1943. In 1955, to celebrate its 200th anniversary, the company introduced an ultra-thinCaliber 1003, which was just 1.64mm thick – this caliber was revisited in gold in 2015.
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin became part of the Richemont Group. On 9 August 2004, Vacheron Constantin opened its new Manufacture in Plan-les-Ouates, designed by renowned architect Bernard Tschumi. in October 2013, the Maison inaugurated a new production facility in Le Brassus, at the heart of the Vallée de Joux.
For its 260th anniversary, the company created the astonishing Reference 57260 (named after its 57 complications and the 260th anniversary) which was the most complicated mechanical pocket watch ever created at the time – please see more about it here. Last year, Vacheron presented the Berkley Grand Complication, which consists of 63 horological complications and 2,877 components, thus surpassing the previous record.
The current Vacheron Constantin collections include classic and contemporary models in the Patrimony, Traditionnelle, Malte, Historiques and Fiftysix collections. Overseas are a more sporty line, while the Égérie collection is dedicated to women. Beyond these, the company regularly showcases artistic creations in the Métiers d’Art and Heures Creatives selections.
Last year Richemont announced that as of 1st January 2025, Laurent Perves takes over the role of the Maison CEO succeeding Louis Ferla, whom he worked closely with for the past 8 years.
Traditionnelle Openface limited editions
‘The quest for technical excellence is expressed through the mastery of mechanical complications, timekeeping precision, miniaturisation, original displays, fine finishing, and a vocation to always innovate.’ – the states as a reconfirmation for the 270th anniversary.
The three haute horlogerie Traditionnelle highlights embody this philosophy. The lively novelties are the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface and the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. They’re all limited editions and feature openworked dials with a signature pattern inspired by the outline of the Maltese cross.
The retrograde date is an important complication for the Maison. One of their most interesting and discussed pieces is the Vacheron Constantin ‘Don Pancho’ Minute Repeater – the first watch in history featuring a retrograde date and a minute repeater. It was made as a special commission for a distinguished Spanish client named Francisco ‘Don Pancho’ Martínez Llano, probably created in 1936 and finally delivered in 1940. The watch remained in a vault for 60 plus years and needed a restoration very much. Finally in 2019, it was sold at the auction of Phillips for CHF 740,000. Since this piece the company had reintroduced the retrograde display many times.
The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface model has the slimmest platinum case among the three novelties, it is only 10.94 mm thick. It features a new self-winding manufacture movement, Calibre 2460 QPR31/270. It has a perpetual calendar displaying the days, months and leap-year cycle, requiring no correction until 2100. The precision moon-phase display sits at 6 o’clock, accurately tracking the moon’s actual cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes.
The new Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface watch is powered by the self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270, a 6.35 mm thick, 242-component manufacture movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The piece showcases a Maltese cross shape caged tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface features triple calendar indications – day of the week, date and month – and a precision moon-phase display that needs adjustment only once in 122 years. The watchmakers opted for the manufacture Calibre 2460 QCL/270: a more modern version of the Calibre 2450.
Each new Traditionnelle complications arrive in 370, individually numbered pieces.
Patrimony novelties
The Patrimony line of Vacheron is inspired by the ultra-thin, round timepieces of the brand in the 1950s. Both, the Patrimony Self-Winding (limited edition of 370 pieces) and Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date (limited edition of 270 pieces) models come in two versions: pink and white gold.
The the silver-toned dials are distinguished by the 270th anniversary motif – a subtle geometric pattern inspired by the Maltese Cross. As Christian Selmoni shares – ‘The Maltese cross served as the starting point for a pattern imagined by the Maison’s guillocheur that is both contemporary in style and traditionally crafted, using machines dating from more than a century ago. … The master guillocheur brings these complex patterns to life by means of engraving operations involving tenth-of-a-millimeter accuracy, giving each piece its unique character.’
The cross also appears on the pin buckles that fasten the dark green alligator leather straps.
The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date 42.5 mm watch includes the self-winding manufacture Calibre 2460 R31L/270 with a 40-hour power reserve and a moon-phase display at six o’clock, set in an aperture graduated from 0 to 29.5.
The latest Patrimony Self-Winding watch is driven by the manufacture Calibre 2450 Q6/270 – with its 40 mm in diameter, 8.65 mm thick case is a great choice for many wrists.
Vacheron Constantin introduced four more Traditionnelle novelties – stay tuned for more.
Featuring 41 complications, 5 rare astronomical functions and an innovative Westminster minute-repeater, the double-sided Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication – La Première is the main anniversary release of the Maison. Find out more here.
Photo credits: Loupiosity.com
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