“Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” – Confucius

Vacheron Constantin at Watches and Wonders 2024

Vacheron Constantin presented the platinum-to-the-stitching Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph and new Patrimony dress watches at the WW24.

The remarkably ethereal designs of Vacheron Constantin has been a source of visual joy to me. Models of the last century fascinate me with their elegance whenever I encounter them at auctions or have the chance to browse the company’s curated heritage offers Les Collectionneurs. A long and fertile past may pose a challenge to creativity and therefore a strong drive for continuous renewal is important. At the same time, it typically results in a sense for inextricable balance that becomes part of its core.

In the year dedicated to the theme ‘From Geometry to Artistry’, Vacheron Constantin presented breathtaking dress watches at the Watches and Wonders 2024. The designer’s intention to create bond with the less lines possible is obvious on all four pieces. Although dress watches, I’m sure you’d want to keep them on during the everydays.

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

The noblest metal gives the shine and protection to the remarkable design introduced in 2020. Representing an important link between past and present, pieces in the Traditionnelle line are contemporary, yet follow traditional design codes. They fluctuate between absolute simplicity and abundant ornamentation, but even dragons and seas of diamonds are kept within a tight design framework.

During the virtual Watches and Wonders in 2020, Vacheron Constantin showcased the fascinating Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, equipped with the Calibre 3200. The movement was part of the 260th anniversary celebrations in 2015 when it appeared in the Harmony Tourbillon Chronograph. I love the layout, which orientates the tourbillon with the beautiful Maltese Cross to the top of the timepiece.

In 2024, Vacheron Constantin enclosed the same movement and the Traditionnelle design in 950 platinum. They did it to the extent that the sand-blasted metal looks back at us from the dial and even caresses the wrist as part of the platinum-silk braided stitching of the leather strap. The hue of the fine grained dial is fantastic just like the contrast it makes with the polished indexes, the tourbillon bridge, the hands and the case. 

At the back, the integrated monopusher chronograph and the lateral clutch can be observed in action through the sapphire crystal. The mechanism engages on firm pressure only to avoid unwanted activation.

The timepiece has become the member of the Collection Excellence Platine and is produced in a limited batch of 50 pieces. It is available exclusively from Vacheron Constantin boutiques.

Additions to the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony collection

Purity and the celebration of the style of the ‘50s are the creating principles behind the Patrimony collection. This Watches and Wonders brought 3 novelties that all share the defining thin hands, the applied pink gold hour-markers with the circular ‘pearl’ minutes track, and the old-silver-toned, sunburst dial.

Patrimony Manual-Winding

The first two time-only models differ in the case and strap colours only. Customers can choose between white (ref. 1410U/000G-H017) and pink gold (1410U/000G-H018) cases, which both come in a 39mm diameter. They share the old-silver-toned dial as well as all the appliqués, which work very well with both case colours. The size is universal and makes the 7.7mm thick watch rest well on the vast majority of the wrists. The sunburst-finishing and its convex shape enhance the appearance of the new antique silver-toned dial even more. 

The closed case back hides the 2.6mm thin, hand-wound Calibre 1440, which has been operating in many models of the this year 20 years old Patrimony collection. The mainspring provides 42 hours running reserve.

I love the simplicity of the Patrimony collection, which couldn’t be more striking than on these time-only models.

Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date

The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date was first introduced in 2017. The aforementioned silver-toned dial and the olive-green alligator strap are the new properties of the 2024 version. The white gold case is 42.5mm in diameter and 9.7mm in thickness and unlike the time-only versions, the case back is not solid gold.

The sapphire crystal offers an undisturbed view on the automatic 2460 R31L movement, which besides the time display function, provides a moon phase indicator (appearing at 6 o’clock) and a retrograde date indicator (spanning between 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock).

Photo credits: Loupiosity.com
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