“Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” – Confucius


Girls don’t just wanna have fun – Part 24, Patek Philippe

In this series we showcase mechanical and artistic wonders that were especially designed for women and others originally for men that come alive on spirited ladies’ wrists. At the Watches and Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe introduced a number of novelties that clearly fall into this category.

The 2025 Watches and Wonders Patek Philippe lineup ranges from a smaller (40mm) model from the Cubitus line introduced last year as a brand new collection, Complications and Grand Complications and even a table clock and perpetual calendar offering 31 days of running time at a precision of +/- 1 sec a day. Yet, in this article we are focusing on some ladies’ eye-catchers, which the manufacture presented several of.

7340/1R Perpetual Calendar – Twenty-4

Patek Philippe launched the Twenty-4 collection in 1999 dedicating the art-deco “manchette” or cuff inspired line to the female elegance. In 2018 new round models started to appear. Although they looked very different, a couple of design principles were held firmly in the past 26 years: they were always adorned with diamonds, had metal bracelets or satin straps, and functionality were limited to time and a date (since the appearance of round case automatic models with Calibre 324). Last year, the company created a 25th anniversary model in the spirit of the original design.

In 2025, the 36mm round case and the ergonomic bracelet remain, but the 7340/1R implements multiple significant changes to its predecessors. For example, all the diamonds are gone, which makes the polished golden surfaces even smoother and more pronounced. To me it recalls the golden 80s. Another 1st is the upgraded functionality, that is nothing less than a perpetual calendar delivered by the iconic ultra-thin 3Hz automatic Caliber 240 Q. The base movement (Calibre 240) was born in 1977 and was Patek Philippe’s main mechanical counter-offer during the quartz crisis. The perpetual calendar was added in 1985, and therefore Calibre 240 Q celebrates its 40th birthday in this year’s models. 

The fantastic content is hidden behind two dial-versions. 7340/1R-001 has a silvery vertical and horizontal ‘shantung’ satin-finish. The other 7340/1R-010 version lets a sunburst olive green dial shine in the rose golden setting.

‘Shantung’ silk comes from the Shandong province in eastern China, producing a specific type of fabric using wild silk, primarily from Tussah silkworms (which feed on oak leaves). The filaments spun by these wild silkworms are naturally thicker, stronger, and less uniform in thickness compared to the fine, smooth filaments of cultivated silk. When these naturally uneven wild silk filaments are spun into yarn and woven, they create characteristic irregular thicknesses known as ‘slubs’ or nubs. They give the fabric its distinctive textured surface, where thicker yarns often run horizontally and across finer vertical yarns.

4946R-010 Annual Calendar, moon-phases

The same ‘shantung’ finishing pattern looks at us on the chestnut brown dial of the 4946R-010. Although its diameter is 2mm larger than the 7340/1R’s, the 38mm model equally targets narrower wrists and people with aesthetic preference for smaller diameters. The metal of the case is the same warm rose gold.

The timepiece computes date based on an annual calendar (no leap year calculation, therefore requiring a manual adjustment every February), a mechanism first created by Patek Philippe in 1996. Because of this, the dial is somewhat simpler than the 7340/1R’s: it is missing leap year and 24-hours indications and the date is situated in a little aperture at 6 o’clock. The self-winding 26-330 S QA LU caliber operates at 4Hz frequency.

The timepiece comes with a chestnut calfskin strap with denim pattern.

Calatrava 6196P

Because of its simplicity, the Calatrava 6169P is probably my design favourite from this year’s novelties. The dial of the 38mm platinum case model is rose-gilt opaline which the black anthracite coated white golden hands stand in beautiful contrast against. The shape of the case, the markers and hands emphasise the Bauhaus styling codes. The case is set with a brilliant-cut diamond at 6 o’clock.

The manually wound 4Hz Calibre 30-255 PS which can be admired through the sapphire case back has a running reserve for 65 hours. 

The strap is dark chocolate brown coloured alligator leather with a platinum prong buckle.

Ladies’ Nautilus 7010G

The great combination of the azure blue lacquered waves and the white golden porthole-shaped case is what makes me want this piece. The light reflected by the polished case surfaces and the diamonds on the bezel recall the rays of the sunlit Mediterranean Sea. The same blue continues on the highly resistant fabric strap. (Another reference with a white gold bracelet was introduced too.)

Unlike the previous timepieces, this has the the quartz Caliber E23-250 S C inside. All the mechanical parts are finished to the same high standards as the Patek Philippe mechanical calibers.

Photo credits: Loupiosity.com
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