H. Moser & Cie. returned to Watches & Wonders 2026 with a bigger & better booth and novelties that challenge the conventions of haute horlogerie. From a collaboration with Reebok that reimagines the winding gesture to a venture into ceramic construction, the Schaffhausen manufacture proves that technical rigour and playful insolence can coexist.
Streamliner Pump: The Return of the Gesture
The headline act of H. Moser & Cie.’s 2026 collection is undoubtedly the Streamliner Pump, a collaboration with the iconic sportswear brand Reebok. Launched as Reebok prepares to revive its famous Pump sneaker technology, this timepiece transposes the nostalgic act of inflating a shoe into a mechanical winding system. It is a creation born from the brand’s Moser Exploration LAB™, a department dedicated to unconventional ideas.
Replacing the traditional crown is an anodised aluminium pusher, reminiscent of the orange button found on 1980s sneakers. Pressing this button winds the manual-winding HMC 103 calibre, simultaneously charging the barrel spring and activating the power reserve indicator. The mechanism is partially visible through openworked bridges, revealing the ‘mechanical choreography’ beneath. For this novelty H. Moser & Cie. completely re-engineered the automatic HMC 500 small seconds movement, transforming it into a manual-winding calibre. The sharpened, lightweight design allows to accommodate the Pump system while preserving the brand’s minimalist DNA.
According to Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie., the philosophy behind the piece is clear: ‘We take watchmaking very seriously, but we cultivate our image as the ‘cool kid’ of haute horlogerie.’ The Streamliner Pump embodies this by inviting the wearer to touch, press, and feel, reintroducing play into an industry often dominated by formality.
Matt Salter, Executive Vice President of Partnership Marketing at Authentic Brands Group (owner of Reebok), noted the synergy: ‘… Getting dressed starts with the shoes you’re going to wear and finishes with putting on your watch.’ As a nod to this connection, owners of the watch receive access to an exclusive Pump sneaker, creating a reciprocal relationship between the footwear and the timepiece.
The Streamliner Pump is available in two references, each limited to 250 pieces. Both feature cases crafted from forged quartz fibre—a material chosen for its purity, UV resistance, and ability to be coloured in ways carbon cannot. The process creates a unique moiré pattern on the matte surface, ensuring no two cases are identical. Inside, a titanium ‘sarcophagus’ protects the movement and ensures water resistance to 10 ATM.
The black version features a black polished dial and strap, while the white version mirrors this in white. The dials are devoid of logos, save for the transparent lacquer application, with hands featuring Globolight® inserts that emit a green glow. The power reserve is indicated by a distinct orange disc, a subtle homage to the Reebok branding.
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum
While the Streamliner Pump embraces strong contrast and cool design, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept Tantalum strips the complication down to its rawest, most elemental form.This is not the first time H. Moser & Cie. has opted to use tantalum, but this piece explores a new facet of tantalum, adopting the rare metal not just for the case, but for the dial itself.
Tantalum, discovered in 1802 by Swedish chemist Anders Gustaf Ekeberg, is a dense, hard, yet ductile metal known for its exceptional resistance to corrosion and near-absolute stability. With a melting point close to 3000 °C, it is an unforgiving material that requires advanced metallurgical expertise to machine. On this model, the dial is machined from a solid tantalum plate, featuring a brushed sunburst pattern applied directly to the metal. There is no lacquer, no surface treatment, and no varnish. The result is a ‘living dial’ whose dark grey hue, accented with bluish reflections, changes subtly with the angle of light, revealing the true nature of the material rather than a mere decorative effect.
True to the Concept series, the watch is stripped of all superfluous elements: no logos, no indices, no graduations. The only indications are the instantaneous jump big date, a signature of the Moser Perpetual Calendar, the power reserve indicator at nine o’clock displaying the seven-day reserve, and a small arrow-shaped central hand indicating the months. The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are made from steel, providing a sharp contrast to the raw metal dial.
The movement driving this creation is the hand-wound HMC 800 calibre. It embodies the Moser philosophy of rendering extreme technical complexity almost invisible through disarmingly simple operation. All adjustments are made via the crown, at any time of day, without the need for instructions. The movement features a double barrel, an interchangeable Moser escapement, and an original double hairspring, with the pallet fork and escapement wheel crafted from gold. Limited to 50 pieces, this watch is described by the brand as ‘radical, silent, almost introspective,’ rewarding those who take the time to observe and feel the material.
Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton
The Endeavour line received a new member earlier this year. The 5N red gold timepiece is fully openworked, and fully aligned with the elegance of the collection. Time is driven by a one-minute flying tourbillon with a double hairspring, visible in its entirety. Housed in a 40mm case and powered by the skeletonised HMC 814, this is a watch for those who value subtraction.
Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic
The Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, marking the first time in the brand’s history that it has ventured into ceramics. This material choice aligns with the organic, flowing lines of the Streamliner collection, allowing the cushion case and integrated bracelet to embrace the material’s density and colour.
The case and bracelet are crafted from anthracite grey ceramic, featuring alternating polished and satin-finished surfaces. The finishing is hand-applied, with vertical satin finishing on the bracelet and circular satin finishing on the case, revealing the depth of the mineral material. Ceramic offers stability, lightness, and hypoallergenic properties, making it suitable for everyday wear while maintaining an intense, dark aesthetic.
Contrasting the cool grey exterior is a Red fumé Grand Feu enamel dial. H. Moser & Cie. has reinvented this ancient art by engraving a hammered texture on a white gold base before applying two enamel pigments in a gradient. The result is an incandescent, vibrant red devoid of indices or logos, adhering to the brand’s minimalist philosophy.
Powering the watch is the HMC 805 automatic calibre, featuring a double hairspring designed and produced in-house by Precision Engineering AG. This dual-spring system compensates for shifts in the centre of gravity, enhancing accuracy. The movement features anthracite-finished bridges and a skeletonised 18-carat red gold oscillating weight. A one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock adds dynamism to the composition. The watch is water-resistant to 12 ATM and stands 12.8 mm thick, a confident presence that belies the technical difficulty of working with ceramic.
Photo credits: Loupiosity.com
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