Phillips showcases highlights of The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI, taking place on 11 May 2026, the Hôtel Président Wilson in Geneva. This season’s sale also introduces a new section titled ‘Collections & Provenance’.
Marking its 230th anniversary, Phillips returns to Geneva with a refined selection of exceptional gemstones, historic jewels and signed masterpieces. The upcoming auction features a new ‘Collections & Provenance’ section, placing a special emphasis on period jewels, signed pieces and objects of distinguished provenance. The sale includes items from the Vanderbilt and Bavarian royal collections, alongside standout lots including an example of the iconic Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Zip’ necklace, a 14.69ct Colombian emerald ring and signed pieces from Sterlé and Cartier.
Benoît Repellin, Phillips’ Worldwide Head of Jewellery, said, ‘We are immensely proud to present The Geneva Jewels Auction: VI, where the spotlight falls on both rare jewels of historical provenance and exceptional signed creations. Marking Phillips’ 230th anniversary, we are particularly pleased to introduce our new section, ‘Collections & Provenance’, inspired by Phillips’ long-standing legacy. Following the success of The Vanderbilt Family Jewels, which was 100% sold in November last year, we are delighted that members of the family have once again entrusted us with pieces from their collections. This curated offering tells stories of heritage, craftsmanship and legacy, coming to market at a time of strong global appetite for period and signature jewels.’
Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Zip’ and ‘Les Jardins’
Among the most anticipated lots is the Van Cleef & Arpels coral, chrysoprase, and diamond necklace/bracelet combination, known as the ‘Zip’. Estimated at CHF 260,000–480,000, this piece (lot 399) is a testament to the Maison’s revolutionary approach to wearable art. The iconic ‘Zip‘ necklace, originally conceived in the 1950s, represents a fusion of high jewellery and functional design, allowing the piece to transform from a necklace into a bracelet. The use of coral and chrysoprase here offers a departure from the traditional diamond-centric iterations, introducing organic textures and vibrant green and orange hues that align with the Art Deco fascination with exotic materials, color combinations and geometric versatility.
The Van Cleef & Arpels ‘Les Jardins’ necklace (lot 398), estimated at CHF 95,000–190,000. Set with sapphires, coloured sapphires, garnets, and diamonds, this piece showcases the Maison’s mastery of colour. The interplay of cool blue sapphires against the warm tones of garnets creates a dynamic visual rhythm and embodies a high jewellery fantasy about a secret garden.
Exceptional Gemstones
The auction places a heavy emphasis on untreated, high-quality gemstones, a trend that continues to drive the secondary market.
An impressive example is the pair of Ceylon sapphire earrings (lot 390), weighing 12.31 and 12.69 carats respectively, free from heat treatment, with an estimate of CHF 175,000–190,000. Ceylon sapphires are renowned for their lighter, more luminous blue tones (‘sky’ blue or cornflower blue) compared to their Burmese counterparts, often displaying a silk-like sheen. The pairing of two large, matched stones of this calibre requires significant skill in sourcing and cutting.
For collectors seeking other vivid colours, the sale offers a Colombian emerald ring (lot 395) weighing 14.69 ct, estimated at CHF 230,000–280,000. The ‘no indications of clarity modification’ is a significant qualifier, as most emeralds undergo oiling or resin treatment to enhance clarity. An untreated stone of this size represents a pinnacle of natural beauty, with the characteristic green hue of Colombian mines often cited as the standard for the gemstone.
Adding a touch of modern rarity is the Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring/pendant combination (lot 359), weighing 14.15 ct and estimated at CHF 60,000–80,000. Discovered relatively recently in Brazil (in the 1980s), Paraiba tourmalines are prized for their electric neon hues, a result of copper and manganese traces. Their extreme rarity and intense colouration have made them a favourite among contemporary collectors.
The auction also highlights the gold sculptural skills of French maisons. The Sterlé for Chaumet gold and diamond ‘Leaf’ brooch (lot 373), circa 1967, estimated at CHF 18,000–28,000, exemplifies the mid-century shift towards more organic, nature-inspired forms. Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978), known for its avant-garde, asymmetric approach, often collaborated with Chaumet to produce pieces that blurred the lines between jewellery and sculpture (he also joined the House as technical consultant). The ‘Leaf’ motif, rendered in gold and diamonds, captures the delicate asymmetry of nature, a departure from the rigid symmetry of earlier periods.
Some other lots present very different design languages and materials. A wood bangle set (lot 338) with heart-shaped diamond (5.30ct) is accompanied by six interchangeable hinged bangles in translucent acrylic – each of them can be worn with the diamond.
Two other interesting lots of the auction.
Source: press release. Photo credits: Loupiosity.
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