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"Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without." - Confucius

This spring Hermès introduced the Hermès Cut, an important milestone for the brand. The novel collection was inspired by Hermès scarf designs and contains limited editions of artisan pieces. 

Hermès Cut

The Hermès timepieces embody the essence of the brand: they are design objects that evoke wonder. The ‘Hermès Time’ philosophy is not about the taut counting of seconds, but more about living in the moment.

Hermès’ first steps in watchmaking were between 1930 and 1950, when they cooperated with Swiss watchmaker Universal Genève. The result was a series of wrist chronographs (manufactured in 18k gold or stainless steel) and women’s Art Deco cuff watches (in 18k gold, steel or platinum). These models featured the ‘Hermès’ or ‘Hermès Universal Genève’ sign while the watch mechanisms were branded ‘Universal Genève S.A’. 

The watch subsidiary La Montre Hermès was established in the 1970s in Bienne, Switzerland. Since then, La Montre Hermès has been adding new resources striving for manufacturing independence. For example, they acquired 25% of the shares of movement specialist Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier in 2006. Given the recent news aired by Miss Tweed about the Sandoz Family Foundation selling its watchmaking companies including the rest of Vaucher, and Hermès’ commitment to using Vaucher movements in its collections, it will be interesting to see whether Hermès will give a purchasing offer for additional ownership.

Hermès collections such as the Arceau, the Dressage, the Kelly or the Cape Cod sit well in the manufacture’s mission to create pieces with strong identity that uphold their value and stand the test of changing fashion.

In 2024, the Hermès Cut joins the selection and represents an important launch for the brand. The Cut is a very well designed, comfortable, simple yet eye-catching sporty stainless steel timepiece with interchangeable steel bracelet, which competes directly with the sporty ‘functional’ mechanical lines of Chanel, Rolex, Omega or Chopard.

Hermes_Cut, in steel, metal bracelet
Hermès Cut, in steel, metal bracelet

It comes in four models – in steel or in two-tone combination of steel and rose gold, both with or without diamonds. 

The easy to wear and appealing 36mm round case playfully frames the circles of the bezel and the minute scale of the dial into a round shape. The satin-brushed and polished case has clean-cut edges on both sides to accentuate its character. 

The crown, positioned at half past one is embellished with a lacquered or engraved H, depending on the model. All variants have an opaline silver-toned dial and embossed luminous Arabic numerals, and the fonts are again, unmistakably Hermès. 

There are many integrated metal bracelet watches on the market today. The Maison is offering not only a beautiful version of it with supple, rounded profile bracelet links, but it is also interchangeable to a rubber strap on demand. The latter is available in a range of eight colours drawn from the Hermès palette – white, orange, gris perle, gris étain, glycine, vert criquet, bleu jean and capucine. 

The novelty houses the 4 Hz 50 hours power reserve H1912 calibre that has been made by the above mentioned Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier since 2012.

Hermès Arceau Chorus Stellarum

Henri d’Origny, the legendary designer and former artistic director, who has been with Hermès for more than 60 years. He created the Arceau watch in 1978. The round case with asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs saw already many great interpretations; different materials and dial motifs or even special complications, like the Arceau L’heure de la Lune.

This year, Hermès released beautiful creations in the ‘Pièces d’exception’ category. One of my favourites is the Arceau Chorus Stellarum based on a silk scarf, which comes in two exclusive interpretations. The Chorus Stellarum scarf was designed by Daiske Nomura, Japanese designer and illustrator. He brings manga and anime motifs to the French House, with robot spiders, skeleton horses and otherworldly, fantasy-like creatures. 

The pictured version of the novelty has a 41mm white gold case, deep blue and black dial in champlevé enamel with transferred and lacquered constellations and applied brass stars. 

The main character is a skeleton, riding a horse – both in 2N yellow gold, engraved and painted by hand. Driven by a spring mechanism on the Hermès H1837 movement, the rider and his steed swing into action at the flick of a thumb in a smooth “on-demand impulse” animation. The pusher for this feat is situated at 9 o’clock.

The watch comes with a matt abyss blue alligator strap and it is issued in numbered limited series of six.

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