“Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without.” – Confucius

Play of light

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As usual, the Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week was the perfect opportunity for jewellery houses to debut their latest Haute Joaillerie collections. Fashion Week is now over, but I had great anticipation for seeing the latest high jewellery collection from Boucheron in person, at their Place Vendôme salon.

Pierre Bouissou’s (President and CEO) intention of breathing new life into the jewellery house is a clear success. In 2011 he appointed Claire Choisne as Creative Director, who once again designed the latest pieces with an exciting approach. The key inspiration behind the collection was the Sun and the Moon, light and shadow and various shades of white. Light has always played a key role in the story of the Maison. Frédéric Boucheron selected the location at 26 Place Vendôme to be the home of his jewellery in 1893; to this day, this is the part of the square where the light is at its most interesting and playful, the sunshine seems to circle the interior space.

Inspired by the rays of the sun, the Soleil Radiant collection consists of a stunning neckpiece, ring and earrings, and it pays homage to the Sun King, Louis XIV. The economy and cultural life made great advances in France during his reign, thus his person has become a symbol for French glory. The unique feature of the baguette, princess and round cut diamonds necklace is that a rock crystal and diamond jewellery holder can be fitted in its centre. The motif of the jewellery holder is also reflected in the other pieces of the collection including the ring, earrings and bracelet.

The Paon de Lune tells the story of a unique Moon peacock; a “peacock feather” can be attached to the question mark-shaped neckpiece that can be worn on its own too as a brooch. Another, smaller peacock feather can also serve as a hair accessory.

The Point d’Interrogation necklace is a Boucheron innovation from 1879, it was created without a clasp or any other closure, and comfortably fits around the wearer’s neck merely thanks to its shape.

The collection consisting of diamond, rock crystal, aquamarine and meteorite includes an “object of art” in addition to the neckpiece, earrings, brooch and ring. One of the small peacock brooches that can be worn on the shoulder turns into a unique interior decoration object when placed onto a moonstone pedestal.

This year I already admired Boucheron’s little “bugs” at Baselworld; the Les Messagers Celestes rings were inspired by Ancient Egyptian, Greek and Chinese cultures. The scarab beetle is the symbol of re-birth and protection, the cicada signifies the dawn of a new day. The white gold rings are made of rock crystal, opal, engraved mother-of-pearl, and cabochon cut precious stones.

The Halo Delilah is a unique set consisting of diamonds and morganites. The cabochon-cut morganites come in different shades, the yellow, champagne, light brown and pale pink tones look beautiful on the skin.

The Fleur du jour “question mark” necklace depicts a flower and its shadow. Behind the white gold pansy set with diamonds, there is another second flower made of pink tourmaline. The latter can be detached from the necklace and can be worn as a brooch too, and it is also replaceable with another grey mother-of-pearl flower. The collection is completed with flower petal-shaped earrings and ring.

Rock crystal is often featured in Boucheron’s current collections. The Goutte de Lumière (Drop of Light) set is inspired by Gabrielle Boucheron, it illustrates the bohemian spirit; an artistic ideal based on freedom, light-heartedness, femininity and self-confidence. The necklace consists of crystal briolettes in various cuts thus different in tone; the centrepiece is a rock crystal droplet, with diamonds inside.

In the Perles d’Eclat set this motif was carried even further, the crystal bubbles feature diamond motifs, lending a wonderful play of light to the jewellery.

The Cascade de Diamants necklace, ring and earrings form an elegant set that salutes early 19th century Paris and César Ritz. Ernest Hemingway, who was a frequent guest at both the Ritz and Boucheron said: “At the Ritz, Paris is a feast!” This attitude permeates the jewellery, motifs of set round diamonds and baguettes link between them ten hollowed-out crystal elements that form a curve on the necklace.

Albeit these Boucheron collections can rightfully be labelled haute joaillerie, they are at once modern, and can be integrated into many wardrobes, and comfort and wearability were taken into consideration during their design.


Photo credits: Boucheron, Loupiosity.com.
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