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"Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without." - Confucius

Tudor, as the baby of Rolex was born in 1926, and was given the mission to create more modestly priced but similarly high-standard and durable timepieces. A legacy like Rolex’s can weigh you down but can also elevate you to new heights. It may give you for example access to certain technologies developed by the big brand or to its’ manufacturing facilities.

For instance in 1952, when the Tudor Oyster Prince was announced, it received Rolex’s Oyster case as well as the auto-winding mechanism as per the direct wishes of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex:

“I have decided that the Tudor Prince deserves to share with Rolex two advantages I would allow no other watch to use – the famous and unique waterproof Oyster case and the original self-winding Perpetual ‘rotor’ mechanism. All Tudor Oyster Princes will have these two exceptional features, previously exclusive to Rolex. This indicates, I think, the measure of our faith in the new watch. I am proud to give my personal endorsement.”

The Tudor brand was “re-launched” with a new strategy a few years ago, which while staying loyal to its’ original mission of providing a less pricey complimentary option to Rolexes, formed two distinct product lines. The Heritage collection goes back to well-known Tudor models and kisses them alive in the spirit of the 21st century. The other line includes more contemporary pieces such as the Tudor Fastrider Black Shield or the Pelagos.

 

Baselworld 2014 novelties

 

Tudor Heritage Black Bay and Tudor Heritage Ranger

The 1954 Tudor Submariner was given a new dress in 2012. The black chocolate dial, the nice warm burgundy bezel and the many little fine touches the creators applied to the timepiece won the “Revival” category price for the Tudor Heritage Black Bay at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in 2013. This spring a new frosty-eyed bluish-silver version has melted out from the remainders of the Alps’ glaciers. The colours, which are more reminiscent of the blue Submariners prepared for the Marine Nationale Française during the ‘70s lend an even sharper look to the watch. It shares the same features, including the original dome-shaped sapphire crystal, the “snowflake” hands as well as the big crown. The automatic movement is Tudor’s version of the proven ETA 2824. It can be purchased with a satin-finished bracelet or a midnight-blue distressed leather strap – either way, you’ll get a third very endurable and comfortable fabric strap in addition. This is the same fabric material as the one seen on the Chrono Heritage model last year and is inspired by the parachute belts used by mariners as a watch strap – see the photo of a 1977 model below.

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Tudor Heritage Black Bay

 
Sled dogs ride and -40C in the video introducing the Tudor Heritage Ranger at the show, inspired by the Tudor Ranger from the ‘60s. The predecessor was considerably smaller in diameter than the current 41mm version. The numbers on the matte black dial are hand painted with a coloured luminous substance and together with the light leather bund strap that follows the shape of the watch they give a retro feel. The movement is the same automatic 2824 that operates in the Heritage Black Bay. I believe that this is the timepiece that comes alive on the wrist – they mutually enhance each other. In the shadow of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay the Heritage Ranger was an unexpected, but absolutely positive surprise.

 

Tudor Style

A classical design with a number of available sizes and colours for both men and women is what Tudor Style offers. The dial comes in three variations, all with or without gems at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock: deep lacquer black, champagne sunray or silver coloured sunray. The index markers are bevelled on all sides, just like the hands.

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Tudor Style

 

Photo credits: Tudor, Loupiosity.com.
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