Urwerk landed in Geneva with 3 new versions of existing models last week. The final batch of the “Torpedos” have become organic by the application of wool tweed straps and a precious wood mask, while the big brother UR-210S could not be more high-tech with the new metal crown protector and bracelet. The black DLC-treated titanium and steel case EMC that swept the GPHG awards was also displayed.
UR-110 “Torpedo” EastWood
First, when I saw it on Timothy Everest’s blog back in November, I immediately thought it was the Dirty Harry style Clint Eastwood that inspired the gents at Urwerk. In fact, the name comes from the wood they used for the piece originating from the East – Indonesian Macassar ebony and the South African Red Ivory wood (kind of East). As this model gets decommissioned, Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner wanted to do it with style and gave the rather futuristic profile a completely different character (have a look at the previous versions here). Therefore the UR-110 received a bespoke garment from Timothy Everest and a wooden bezel – a mix that changes the tone of the watch completely and wants you to take a seat in the armchair, listen to the fire crackling in the fireplace and pet the greyhound sitting next to you faithfully. Or just chess-mate the bastard like Harry did – “Do you feel lucky, punk?”
Collaboration between Mr. Everest and Urwerk is not new – when in 2011 the watchmakers announced the oversized pocket watch the UR 1001 Zeit Device, they had to get a custom suit tailored to fit the new timepiece in (you can see the pic larger in the 2014 Flashback under the Adventures section). This time for the strap a very durable fine material, wool tweed, was chosen, one with a Prince of Wales brown and blue check pattern and another in gray herringbone.
The EastWood is limited to 5 pieces each in ebony and ivory wood bezel.
“I really don’t think that I can do better. In my eyes the UR-210S is our most accomplished creation to date.”– said Martin Frei, the mastermind behind Urwerk’s designs. With the new metal bracelet the timepiece and the strap merged into a single body, the massive technical appeal of the watch is not softened by leather anymore – the pure cold metal took the realm entirely. When you look at the links individually or the bracelet as a whole, the aggressive lines of the watch is reflected. No doubt, it was designed specifically for this timepiece. At the anchorage a protector makes sure no unwanted crown setting is applied.
The watch itself remained the same: satellite complication with retrograde oversized minute hand, which captivates an hour satellite every 60 mins. The fly-back of the minute hand happens in a flash and the journey of the cage and the next hour satellite on the lower 120 degrees slice starts again.
The UR-210S is limited to 35 pieces.
EMC black DLC titanium
There were not many horology events in 2014, where Urwerk EMC was left un-awarded – the truth is that the idea of letting the owner personalize how the time-machine works has become a major hit. The black DLC titanium was shown last September, but it was no surprise that the proud creators have brought it to the Geneva presentation too. As detailed in our article last February, EMC has a monitoring unit (powered by manual winding) that compares the actual mechanical oscillation of the timepiece measured by the optical sensor to a 16 MHz reference. The delta is displayed and the wearer is allowed to adjust the balance spring to reduce the difference.
Photo credits: URWERK, Loupiosity.com.
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