On the occasion of Mellerio’s historical anniversary, the designer of the collection Edéenne herself talked to me about the jewellery showcased at the 2013 Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.
Édéenne was born in Montreal and originally studied Physics and History of Art. She arrived to France in the early 1980s, and can thank her second career to a fateful event, experienced during a scuba diving session. She studied gemology and jewellery making at the Ecole du Louvre, and then made her public debut within the framework of a large-scale exhibition at the Musée de la Légion d’honneur in 2011.
The diving experience mentioned above helped Édéenne not only to a new profession but also to a new acquaintance, the location of the dive at Lac Majeur was close to the Mellerios’ ancient family grounds. As a result of the new connection, Olivier Mellerio invited Édéenne to design the new collection for the Maison’s 400-year anniversary. Whilst browsing the archives, Édéenne found great inspiration; she was particularly inspired by the personality of Marie de Medici. The grand duchess of Tuscany –and later queen of France-, was the one to permit the Italian Mellerios to transport their jewellery to France without restrictions. The strong-willed Marie de Medici had great interest in not only politics and economy, but she was a great jewellery aficionado too.
Édéenne selected the lily, one of the symbols of the French royal family, as the key motif for the collection. The collection is at once innovative, feminine and sensual, yet true to the traditions and 400-year history of Mellerio dits Meller. We can follow the “development” of the lily motif trough three sub-collections. In the first (Toi & Moi) the lily is still a bud, this state is captured in the white and yellow gold versions of the necklace, ring and earring sets. Then the lily is in bloom on the Evanescente jewels featuring stylised petals. In the third phase both the flower and the details are abundant, in addition to gold and diamonds, the jewels feature other colourful precious stones too.
One of my favourite pieces was a unique pin, the Traine de Corsage Médicis. The blossoming lily circled by its leaves is adorned with emeralds and pearl tassels that run down all the way to the midriff of the wearer. Although I wasn’t exactly dressed for this exceptional piece, I simply had to try it on…
Mellerio, as the jeweller of the queens, has always been known for tiaras. There is a floral piece set with diamonds in this collection too (Tiara Médicis), that can also be turned into a necklace with the aid of a few little clasps.
Photo credits: Mellerio dits Meller, Loupiosity.com.
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