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"Better a diamond with a flaw than a pebble without." - Confucius

Claire Choisne joined Boucheron in 2011 as Director of Creations (formerly she fulfilled a similar position at Lorenz Bäumer) and presented her first designs for the jeweller in 2012.

In the former collection – Rêves d’Ailleurs – Boucheron captured the famous travels and inspirations of the founder’s son Louis Bocuheron, on the haute joaillerie pieces. They invite fans to five exotic countries; Persia, Japan, Russia, India and China. In 2015 the fabulous imaginary journey continues and takes us to Jodhpur.

Louis’ passion for travelling led him to India in 1909 where in addition to creative inspiration and looking for special gemstones, he also acquired prominent clients, such as Maharajah Sir Bhupinder Singh of Patiala. In 1928 the Maharajah of Patiala commissioned Boucheron to set some stones from his gemstone collection into pieces of jewellery. Ever since, the Maison has always had a fruitful relationship with Indian dignitaries and rulers.
The new collection “Bleu de Jodhpur” introduced under the Patronage of His Highness Gaj Singh II only confirms the everlasting link between Boucheron and India.

Gaj Singh II (born on 13 January 1948) is a former member of the Indian parliament and a former High Commissioner of India. He was the Maharaja of Jodhpur from 1952-71.

Jodhpur, the “blue city” is a municipality in Rajasthan, India and a big city, well known for its bright weather (it is also called the Sun City) and its special architecture, palaces, forts and temples, such as the Mehrangarh Fort, the Jaswant Thada, the Umaid Bhavan Palace and the Rai ka Bag Palace. Jodhpur, the largest city in the region, lies in the scrub forest zone of the Thar Desert.

Sharing a common intention to show an elegant, delicate and sophisticated side of India, Claire Choisne involved him directly in the creative process. The sixty pieces of the “Bleu de Jodhpur” collection, including the sketches, were unveiled at the Umaid Bhawan Palace, the palace of Maharaja Gaj Singh II.
The collection consists of four chapters: the Jodhpur, the Indian Palace, the Garden & Cosmos and the Maharani.

 

The Jodhpur

One of the highlights of the collection is an extraordinary reversible necklace. Boucheron is known for using unusual materials in its high jewellery pieces; this time they applied marble from the Makrana quarries. This stone is also known as milky white marble and because of its radiance and colour it was used in construction of the Taj Mahal – an exceptional complex which incorporates traditions of Persian and earlier Mughal architecture (built in 1632-1653).
A special technique is required to cut and shape the marble to create this necklace. The marble is carved into the form of a kite, a motif repeated in different sizes. An impressive 6.01 ct diamond sits in the centrepiece. The other side of the necklace is no less fabulous; the same kite shapes appear in rock crystal, paved with sapphires and diamonds – evoking the blue and white houses of Jodhpur.

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Jodhpur reversible necklace, with rock crystal and sapphires
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Parroquet bracelet

 

The Indian Palace

Another interesting piece is the Nagaur necklace, a tribute to the imperial citadel of the Maharaja of Jodhpur in the middle of the Thar Desert. It is made from gold, diamonds and seven rows of Japanese pearls and the centrepiece is rather unique: it is a nonagon-shaped rock crystal, which represents the contours of the citadel of Ahhichatragarh fort. The rock crystal is filled with sand from the Thar Desert, and decorated with white gold and diamond floral motifs. Quite typical to Boucheron, the necklace is variable and it can be worn in different ways: with or without the tassels and the same applies to the central motif.

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Nagaur necklace, gold, diamonds and seven rows of Japanese pearls with a rock crystal centerpiece

 

Garden & Cosmos

The question-mark necklace is a true Boucheron signature. The Point d’Interrogation in French is an innovative idea from the Maison dating back to 1879 it being a necklace without a clasp or any other closure. It comfortably fits around the wearer’s neck merely thanks to its shape. In the latest collection you can also find such necklaces like the Plume de Paon or the Fleur de Lotus.
The latter was inspired by a painting, “The Creation of the Cosmic Ocean and the Elements”. Lotus, the national flower of India, symbolizes spirituality, wealth, knowledge, illumination and a purity of heart and mind (both Hindus and Buddhists regard it as a sacred symbol). To make the Lotus necklace graceful and sublime, it required an exceptional amount of research for the stones which are a bright 15 ct pink tourmaline, rubellites, orange spessartine garnets combining with marble and diamonds.

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Fleur de Lotus Necklace, set with rubellites, sapphires, marble and diamonds, on white and pink golds
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Tigre ring

 

Maharani

One of my favourite from the Maharani chapter is the Art Deco-style white gold Diwali necklace. Diwali is India’s biggest and most important holiday and it is celebrated it with lamps and candles symbolizing the inner light that protects us from spiritual darkness. The kunzites, spessartite garnets and diamonds on the necklace look like little colourful lampions, surrounding a 19.54 ct kunzite as centrepiece.

The Mehndi pieces pay tribute to nice old Indian tradition, the “Mehndi Night”. The mehndi celebration is a traditional pre-wedding ritual held for the bride, bridal party and a small number of close family and friends. During the event, a professional mehndi artist applies henna motifs on the bride’s hands and feet. The designs are known to be very intricate and ornate, similar to the lace-like white gold and diamond patterns on the Mehndi brooch (the brooch can be converted into a necklace, in the Boucheron tradition of multi-wear jewellery) and earrings.

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Maharani Brooch, with a 19.87 ct emerald

 

Heritage pieces exhibited

 

Photo credits: Boucheron, Loupiosity.com.
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